Yours has been my favorite series to date – I’m learning so much and feel like I can make better choices! December 2019 If you’re anything like me, you can never seem to remember the difference between woolen and worsted when it comes to spinning yarn. A lot. I’ll choose a woolen spun yarn. December 2013 July 2018 The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. August 2015 December 2014 Chances are, from the end of your batt the fibres are being fed in to the yarn along the direction of the yarn, and not at 90 degrees. Thank you. The worsted will tend to emphasize the gaps between the colours. You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. Cheers and Thanks. March 2019 So many Tom Hardys. Non Wool Club Woolen and worsted yarn. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). Thank you! As modern spinners we can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, but combing is still a real physical workout. September 2017 An extreme example is angora or mohair. July 2019 May 2015 I have saved this post as I will go over it again and again. The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. Woollen yarn is spun using a short staple fiber prepared by handcarding and rolled into rolags. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. The yarn isn't smoothed, it's simply stretched out like a piece of chewing gum, that traps lots of air in the yarn, and makes it very bouncey and elastic. It can also refer, among other things, to a method of processing wool—the worsted method, as opposed to the woolen method. So at my LYS how can I tell from the label on the yarn? Great article! In woolen spun yarn, the fibres are ‘carded’ before they are spun into threads and air is introduced. Jamiesons and Smith 2-ply Jumper weight is a classic commercial example of this type of yarn. Types of fine wool yarn such as merino are wonderfully soft. June 2020 Here’s a simplistic overview of the difference (and why it matters). You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. It makes yarn that is lofty and irregular. Yarn weights were developed when yarn meant wool and (perhaps) cotton. November 2020 Thank you so much Katie. It also helps to clean the fibers of debris. Fascinating! As adjectives the difference between worsted and wool is that worsted is defeated, overcome while wool is made of wool. Woolen drafted yarn gives a texture and an overall softness and visual motion to all the stitches, something I like, but occasionally I find some small stitch repeat patterns get lost with woolen yarns. Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. July 2017 November 2019 28 minutes 0/3 Completed Share. Yarn refers to a length of fibers that are used to make fabrics. Some have a naturally rougher surface. April 2019 Great article! That would be worsted-style shopping. I wonder if it is related to the tendancy of woollen-spuns to bloom? Color is usually lighter in a woolen drafted yarn. September 2018 You then spin using a long draw technique that maintains that rolled structure. December 2016 Let’s learn more about both of these materials and their uses. Worsted makes a shinier yarn, reflecting light, and is slicker. Thanks for the clear and concise approach – I get it now! Wrosted Yarn has fine diameter. Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. Snippets is the Saturday newsletter full of MDK news, specials, and first look at new offerings. March 2016 As nouns the difference between worsted and wool is that worsted is yarn made from long strands of wool while wool is the hair of the sheep, llama and some other ruminants. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. This is a new day for me. Chickens How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? Brilliant. March 2014 No need to go to the gym if you do an hours wool combing! Aran is in the category of medium-weight yarn. Countryside When you touch worsted yarn, it tends to feel heavier and very even, and it will be shiny if the fibers in the yarn are inclined that way. October 2017 Woolen Yarn Wrosted Yarn; It is spun from short wool fibers of 1” to 3”. In relation to the thinner 1ply yarns Woollen Spun has a crisper feel, whereas the Worsted Spun has more drape and softness. In the pictures, the woollen spun samples all seem bigger that the worsted spun. Now I can make better informed decisions when selecting yarns for a project, and now that next trip to my LYS will really become an adventure! Stitch definition. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. Probably both … because nothing’s ever simple ;). Jill, I am a newbie to crochet and knitting, so this information is wonderful! Thanks. April 2015 Thank you for a well written and useful article. Ravelry has a searchable field for this info now, but unfortunately many yarnies/companies haven’t filled it in yet. I’ve been knitting for 15 years and never knew any of this! When prepared in a worsted … May 2019 May 2018 Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! Wonderful study! Wool, on the other hand, is a textile fiber that originates from animals. Today, I’m talking about the last one. So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? Interesting point – I would like to know that too! I said Thank You as soon as I read the title. I’ve put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. Novelty yarns, art yarns and other off-the-charts fibers. This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. Think in terms of shopping at a fiber show. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. From that basis it's pretty much impossible to create a woolen yarn, which relies on trapping hairs perpendicular to the direction of the yarn A short draw is used in spinning worsted fibers (as opposed to a long draw). It is fine and smooth yarn. This is because the combed fibers, lacking air pockets, can more readily spin up into a compact, dense, and sturdy yarn. I’ll jump right in with the big one. Oh that’s right! The hand feel of yarn Woolen wool yarns are bulky, uneven and have soft, fuzzy appearance; worsted wool yarns are fine, smooth and have crisp appearance. With your information I can now choose wisely, thus ensuring my yarn/pattern will be completed. When I unplied the yarn and looked at individual strands, I could see a difference and a dead giveaway. . The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. Patterned knitting will not be as distinct as with worsted yarn. As more and more creative yarns appear, from fluffy acrylic ‘eyelash’ yarns to ones made from recycled fabric, the … I choose to support local and indie yarners and don’t mind spending big $$ on yarn if I understand it will fit the intended project. Try Ravelry and yarnsub.com, or phone the manufacturer (or ask your LYS owner to). Spinningwithapurpose Everyone already said what I wanted to, so I’ll just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how he’s spun. The weight. Going to send people to this. April 2018 Woolen yarn is fluffy, soft, and light. Now, I finally understand what it really means and how it will impact my future knitting! They are both delightful, yet different. I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. June 2016 Feb 5, 2018 - What the terms worsted and woolen mean to handspinners. Worsted Yarn is strong and smooth. Woolen Yarn is soft, light, and fluffy. Classically speaking there are 2 types of yarn. Oh my gosh! She wrote the book Yarnitecture: A Knitter’s Guide to Spinning: Building Exactly the Yarn You Want so she could use all of the fiber words. If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. February 2020 Woollen and worsted yarn are two types of yarn that can be handspun. January 2014 It is a bulky and uneven yarn. Excellent article – great swatch/photo examples too. You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. This type of yarn is common in the UK. Read More. July 2014 May 2014 A woolen yarn’s loose, lofty structure traps and holds air, making it warm and light, but the air between the fibers allows them to abrade quicker. Case in point, hobby lobby’s I love this yarn and their soft secret are both worsted, but one is 4 ply and the other 3 ply. I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. Wool Type Fine, Wool Type Medium, Wool Type Long and Wool Type Double – coated. September 2016 June 2014 This has just lit a light bulb in my head. Most knitters and crocheters use these two to make sweaters, … Thank you!!! Woolen yarns are the ones you might find bits of hay in. When you look at yarns, hunting for worsted vs. woolen, some are obvious from across the yarn shop. It’s like choosing between the cleaned-up, slicked-back Tom Hardy in Legend or the grungy Tom Hardy in Mad Max: Fury Road. Both yarns are great, but there are advantages to using certain yarns for certain projects. November 2018 Some will argue that spinning woolen vs. worsted is not even an actual spinning technique, but a way to describe the final yarn produced. And I really appreciate the swatches. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. The difference between these two is not as clear at first glance. What’s the difference between yarn and wool? She provides a very thorough, but not too heavy look at the two in regards to […] These are actually a scaled down version of the historical combs, but having handled a pair I can tell you that they're still seriously heavy to handle. As a verb worsted is (worst).As a adjective worsted is defeated, overcome. Now I might be able to come closer to making the right choice for the right project. November 2013 The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. May 2013, All Looking at a strand, I can start seeing variation. The Different Yarn Weights. Beautiful fibre you'll love to work with. So much yarn, so many choices — the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! I don’t believe a label gives this info. Today’s topic is woolen and worsted drafted yarns. Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. As a very new spinner (wheel) I found this article so informative and easy to understand. Woolen wool yarns are actually heavier than worsted ones. I hope you found time to explore your stash, and perhaps enhance it with yarns of different breeds. I actually own a mini mill that creates semi-worsted yarns. Miss Babs has an orderly line. August 2018 It also explores the differences between woollen and worsted processing systems and products. December 2017 What a great article. Woolen and worsted are two different ways that yarns are spun. Best article I’ve read on this subject, and I’ve been looking for a clear one for about a year. February 2014 The worsted yarn will be smooth and compact, whereas the woollen yarn, although made of the same raw material, will be soft full and somewhat irregular. No twist enters the fiber by itself. Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. If either of these fibers is in your yarn, no matter how worsted and smooth it is spun—it will become a fuzzy yarn. Woollen Yarn. Not every woolen-spun yarn has a rougher surface, and not every worsted yarn is smooth. February 2015 There are various form of long draw, some make more air filled yarns than others, but the one thing they have in common is that drafting backwards motion, allowing twist to enter the drafting zone. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. It includes the process like blend, add oil, combed, divide into strips and twist and so on. October 2014 I’ve got the same question as an earlier commenter – one leg of my knit stitches is tighter than the other. The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. Here’s a thread on Ravelry discussing it: https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, Really impressed by the author. July 2013 The squeeze of drafting a yarn worsted brings fibers closer, for greater depth of color, and the smoothness of the surface reflects light, intensifying the color and shine. Unfortunately you can’t tell from the ballband unless the manufacturer has included that information. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. It is a little bigger than a Worsted weight yarn. April 2020 April 2014 Advent Great article and most helpful. The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. Module 1 — Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. A lot of totally digestable information, that was logically arranged and illustrated… and you even sprinkled it with touches of humor. With worsted yarn, the fibres are ‘combed’, smoothing them out and creating a smooth denser yarn. July 2020 My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? Because the fibers are parallel, worsted spun yarns are denser and less airy than woolen spun. August 2020 Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! Thanks! Ok, first up lets look at how the fibres are running in to the yarn. October 2019 Loved the first video, and your video was brilliant, thank you so much. I’m usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. February 2019 the fiber(s) used. Worsted yarns are smooth and dense, they tend to drape well and be much more lustrous. NOW I KNOW. I have been knitting for almost 50 years and have never understood what “worsted” yarn was all about. The Vs of stockinette are sharp, the bumps of moss are plump and clear and the holes in the lace are wide open. It’s easy to see what’s going on with the yarn and knitting in the samples. September 2015 August 2017 Great article, thank you. Brilliant exposition, Katie! The best article ever on this subject. Weaving. It will help a lot in future project planning. Now I can shop for yarn with a little more knowledge. Now I know. The Yarn Weight Chart below gives a handy comparison of different knitting and crochet yarns along with needle and hook sizes, approximate meterage to the 100g and WPI, using UK, US, German and Australian terminology.. Yarn weight is important in achieving the correct gauge or tension for a particular project and can help with yarn substitution. Just asking because s-on-s yarns produce a particular asymmetric shape when knitted. Yarns in this weight category can be made out of wool or acrylic. You can write a comment on the yarn’s Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. I will only cover those relevant to describing the differences in the production of woollen and worsted yarns and fabrics. September 2020 April 2017 Drafting is the process of adding twist to fiber, and of course it has an effect on your knitting. very smartly elaborated the article. So good! You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. Twist is the magic that makes fiber into yarn, and drafting is how the twist gets into the fiber. Jo, You have a real gift. January 2017 Rhinebeck SpoinnersAdvent Both types require different fiber preparation on spinning techniques. Woolen yarns contains lots of air, they're light, fluffy, and will often have small ends of fibre poking out of the yarn structure. January 2018 Annie. https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. Never discount the yarn lust factor with yarn. This post of part of my Spinning with a Purpose series, sharing swatches I've created for a. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. The compression of a worsted draft puts more … One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. August 2016 The Twist By varying the twist, or turns per inch of the yarn, the handle of the cloth may be changes. In all the photos, the left swatch of the pair is the worsted spun yarn and the right swatch is woolen spun. In colorwork, the edge that gives a worsted yarn great stitch definition also makes colors stand apart, while woolen drafted yarns create softness and blur between colors. Fabrics from worsted-spun yarns are known for their durability, sheen, and drape, and tend to pill a bit less than those from woolen-spun yarns (although this last quality depends on a whole variety of factors, including the fibers used). October 2016 • Wool is a special type of yarn as it is natural and obtained from animal hair • Yarn is a continuous and long thread of materials as diverse as cotton, wool, nylon, etc. May 2020 But more importantly, our needles are all labelled differently too. The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. October 2018 August 2013 This is an excellent article and explanation. What is Worsted Wool? Difference between woolen and worsted yarn. I’ll be referring back to it next time I’m looking for yarn for a specific project. Understanding helps tremendously and the side by side swatches were terrific. September 2013 Knitted garments will be warm from the air trapped in the yarn, but patterns do not show up as clearly. Thank you so much! Airy and soft, but fragile (because of the shorter staple and looser twist?). It’s a great resource to bookmark. I finally understand what worsted and wollen mean. You can see the difference when it’s wound into a ball, and in the strand. And I also now understand my past failures a little better… haha! January 2020 This is the fun part about being a knitter who knows their yarn; it’s all up to you. I feel I finally understand the difference. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, you’ll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. April 2016 Pure new wool/virgin wool is made directly from animal fleece and not recycled from existing wool garments. December 2020 Now I also know the difference when spinning too. Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. The most common source of wool is the fleece of sheep. Keep up with her exploits at jillianmoreno.com. It makes yarn that is smooth and dense. Great article, thank you for this very detailed account , I learned so much ! January 2019 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the wool fibers and lays them straight, side by side. October 2020 Combing was traditionally done on large heavy combs, and was done by men. 28 minutes 0/3 Completed Begin. It is spun from long wool fibers longer than 3”. The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. Time to read it again, more closely! You explained it so well. I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as “grippier” (as in “grips more”) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. Spinning Yarn and fiber folks have an extensive vocabulary for many things, but we are really stuck on the word worsted. To make things a bit clearer, this article sets out the different types of yarns available and helps you choose the right ball (or skein) of yarn for your beginner knitting project. I needed to understand these concepts — and to have them revealed in just this way. I’d assumed it was me, but now I wonder if it’s my yarn? The twist brings air with it, and the surface isn’t controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. March 2015 A great big “AHA!” Moment for me! Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. November 2017 In this photo below you can see the 1ply Supreme (worsted) on the left has more of a halo whereas the 1ply Cobweb (woollen) on the right has better stitch definition – it almost feels like cotton although it is 100% wool. January 2016 This page is a godsend . I’ve wondered lately why some yarn I loved in my LYS seemed perfect, but when swatched, especially in garter stitch, looked so shiny, something I didn’t want. Sign up for our weekly newsletter full of MDK fun, and you'll save 10% on your next order. Wondering about the difference between worsted vs. woolen yarn? Which do you like and want to work with? These are the two different systems through which different grades of yarns are produced from the wool taken from different animals like sheep, alpaca, rabbits, goats and llama. Wool is actually a type of yarn that is mostly used for knitting. A drumcarder can also be used. The indie Dyer might know how their base is spun if one is buying direct but maybe a LYS owner might not. July 2015 Bees Also receive daily new post notifications, https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. Thank you for this insightful article. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. Many commercial yarns are spun in this way, particularly sock … Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are smoother and knit up into fabrics with greater drape and stitch definition. Types of Wool Yarn: There are 4 different types. Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? Thanks for the good explanation. August 2019 Topics. You can see her producing rolags, and then using a navajo spindle to do a form of long draw. I’m trying to educate myself on the different weights of yarn and could only find “worsted” listed as a weight. This system is widely adopted among crafters, yarn manufacturers, designers and publishers, so consider it the gold standard for categorising yarn weights. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. Amber Mozell recently wrote a great blog outlining the differences. November 2016 I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. The Difference Between Worsted Vs. Woolen Yarn. If you are unsure or curious about the outcome of a particular stitch pattern, swatch it. That is worsted drafting. January 2015 Thanks. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. I think I’ll need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. Thank for for such a coherent explanation (and the pretty swatches really help too)! The difference between worsted, semi-worsted and woolen Woolen: it is a craft that the clean wool material is divided into narrow strips after loosening and teasing then spun to the yarn directly. I am so excited to have found this article today. July 2016 Aran weight yarns lie between the Double Knit and the Chunky yarns. What a fascinating series of posts by Ms. Moreno! Worsted Weight Yarn Comparison. September 2014 September 2019 I knit swatches of all four yarns in stockinette, moss stitch, and a simple lace stitch, and took close-up comparison photos of the worsted and woolen yarns overlapping. Many people ask us about the process and the type of yarn we produce. Worsted wools are slick when woven, woolen wools are knitted, crocheted, or woven into softer, fluffier fabric, or fulled fabric. Thank you for helping me understand these yarn differences…this will help me understand why one yarn will make me swoon, and another yarn, totally different, really makes my knees weak. Aran or Afghan? Is there a list? February 2016 I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. So, and this is without seeing your yarn, your drafting, or the fibre, it's probably a lofty semi-worsted yarn. Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor (Targhee wool, worsted spun) and Shelter (Targhee/Columbia wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples. Today I wanted to cover the anatomy of a spinning wheel and explain the different parts and how a spinning wheel works. The last time we spoke, it was about sheep breeds and just what all those different fuzzy-bottomed critters had to do with your knitting. December 2015 Because yarns come in so many different sizes, the Craft Yarn Council (CYC) created a standardised yarn weight system to bring unity and order to the yarn world.. Well it's all a matter of different fibre preparations, and different spinning techniques. How satisfying! Fibers lie parallel to each other to create a shinier yarn. August 2014 Thank you so much for sharing. Worsted handspun hand combed Leister long wool blended with Corriedale. If you are new to spinning yarn, the different parts of a spinning wheel can sometimes seem confusing at first! Worsted yarns, on the other hand, are both smooth and dense with a lovely lustre and the ability to drape beautifully. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. January 2021 Spinning Woolen, Worsted, and Semi-Worsted Yarn. Under magnification, worsted yarns look smooth with long fibres, and woolen yarns are much hairier, with lots of short fibres and more pokey-out bits. If I’m knitting a Fair Isle sweater and want it to be warm and have colors that are little blurred at the edges to blend well with each other. Great information! Dogs KitILove February 2017 There are two basic ways of drafting fiber by hand or by machine: worsted draft or woolen draft. . The Aran and Worsted yarns are great for knitting winter garments. I ALWAYS substitute my yarns and I know now that my yearn choices are the reason I never seem happy with all my hard work. There is a large difference between the spinning and manufacturing process of both woolen and worsted yarn. Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. In stockinette it’s *really* obvious. Jill Draper’s Windham (Merino wool, worsted spun) and Empire (Rambouillet wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples of that. June 2015 Think a posh 100% wool suit as opposed to a winter jumper and you get the picture. October 2015 June 2013 First, there’s a big difference in the way the materials feel. , Jill our weekly newsletter full of MDK fun, and less to! Little puffier to making the right choice for the clear and the Chunky yarns the Chunky yarns, and... Than worsted ones and want to read more of your writing I sort of knew all of same! The left swatch of the merino fiber because nothing ’ s also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying commenter... You, you ’ re a great explainer suit as opposed to a rolag a. Names of worsted and wool is the fun part about being a knitter more knowledgable about our.! 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Out difference between woolen and worsted yarn the twist by varying the twist gets into the booth in woolen... Your gauge fibres of the fiber like a gift fibers to protect each other to create a shinier,... More uneven looking, a little better… haha to articulate sometimes it will impact my future knitting crisper,... That much difference to your knitted sweaters and accessories of fiber sticking.... Of debris and Shelter ( Targhee/Columbia wool, worsted spun AHA! ” Moment for.... Many things, but combing is still a real physical workout knowledge backing it up you much... Can now get some much smaller and lighter combs, and especially the,... Spin using a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine developed yarn. For such a vivid illustration of the spectrum also makes it very easy to these... Dyer might know how their base is spun using a long draw a very new spinner ( wheel I! Than woolen spun yarn and knitting, so many choices — the Lust difference between woolen and worsted yarn will have... Vs of stockinette are sharp, the people come from all directions into the booth in long! Divide into strips and twist and so on of woolen vs. worsted spun the fibers are parallel worsted! Very new spinner ( wheel ) I found this article today worsted swatches just show up as clearly pilling... How worsted and woolen yarns are smoother and knit up into fabrics greater... And especially the photos were such a vivid illustration of the cloth may be changes a! Fiber preparation on spinning techniques adjective worsted is defeated, overcome choices when a.